Locorotondo: the Round Village of Cummerse and White Wine
Locorotondo is a village you recognise by its shape. Seen from above, its historic centre traces an almost perfect circle on the top of a hill, 410 metres above sea level. Driving along the provincial road from Martina Franca at sunset, the circular outline of white houses lit by the low sun is one of the most beautiful views in the Itria Valley.
But Locorotondo is unique for another reason too: the cummerse. Unlike the other villages in the area, the traditional houses here do not have trullo roofs but pitched, double-sloped roofs covered with chiancarelle, the limestone slabs typical of the region. The result looks almost like a northern European village, with white facades and pointed roofs following one another along concentric streets. It is a fascinating contrast with the Mediterranean landscape around it.
Locorotondo’s other treasure is its wine. Bianco di Locorotondo DOC, made from Verdeca and Bianco d’Alessano grapes grown in the valley’s vineyards, is one of Puglia’s historic white wines. Fresh and fragrant, it is perfect with raw fish and local cheeses.
What to see in the historic centre
The route starts at Porta Napoli, the old gateway to the village, and leads straight to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, the town’s living room. From here the concentric lanes branch off, and getting lost in them is the best way to explore Locorotondo. White cummerse with flowering balconies, stone staircases, Latin inscriptions above the doorways (“parva sed apta mihi”, small but suited to me), hidden courtyards: it all reveals itself as you walk without hurry.
The neoclassical Mother Church of San Giorgio Martire dominates the centre, with elegant interiors and valuable works of art. The small Church of San Nicola di Myra, tucked away in the alleys, is a seventeenth-century gem with frescoed vaults that tell the life of the saint. Palazzo Morelli, with its baroque portal and wrought-iron balconies, has the most elegant facade in the village.
The finest moment is a stroll along Via Nardelli, which locals call the “seafront” even though there is no sea: it is a scenic road overlooking the Itria Valley, with a view that stretches as far as Martina Franca. At sunset, with the vineyards and trulli of the valley bathed in golden light, it is one of those sights that justify the whole trip.
Wine and food
Locorotondo lies on the DOC Wine Road, a route that winds through vineyards, wineries and villages all the way to Martina Franca. The local wineries offer tastings and guided visits: an experience worth having at least once during your stay. Among them, I Pastini offers tastings of its white and rosé wines in the heart of the Itria Valley. The Frantoio Galantino, a few kilometres from the centre, is known for its internationally awarded extra virgin olive oil.
The cuisine is that of Puglia’s farming tradition: orecchiette, bombette, fava beans and chicory, capocollo, fresh cheeses. The restaurants of the historic centre serve local dishes in rooms set into old cummerse, with outdoor tables overlooking the valley.
Events
The main patron saint’s festival is dedicated to San Rocco and takes place every year from 15 to 17 August, peaking on 16 August. It is famous for its impressive festive lights, brass band concerts and the Sagra Pirotecnica della Valle d’Itria, a fireworks competition that lights up the sky above the valley and draws visitors from all over the region.
The Locus Festival, in August, brings international music to the historic centre and is one of the most important music events in Puglia. The feast of San Giorgio is celebrated on 23 April with processions and festive lights. In summer the village comes alive with evening markets, food festivals and wine and food evenings.
The nearest beaches
The Adriatic coast is about half an hour away by car, heading east. The nearest beaches are those of Fasano (Savelletri, Torre Canne) and the Capitolo area, between Monopoli and Polignano a Mare. For guests staying in the trulli of the Locorotondo countryside, the sea is a day trip rather than a daily routine.
How to get there
Locorotondo is about 70 kilometres from Bari airport (an hour by car) and about 60 kilometres from Brindisi airport. It has a railway station on the Ferrovie del Sud Est line, with connections to Martina Franca and Bari. For parking, the paid underground car park in Piazza Aldo Moro is the most convenient, a few steps from the historic centre.
Where to stay in Locorotondo: our trulli
Four TrulliOnLine properties are located in the Locorotondo countryside, among vineyards and olive groves.
For couples and small groups
Trullo Giulivo is the property closest to the centre: just two kilometres from the village, with a pool, intimate and secluded. Up to four guests, perfect for a couple.
Trullo Rosso welcomes three to six people in a panoramic position in the countryside, six kilometres from the centre.
For families and groups
Trullo di Ettore sleeps up to nine people, three and a half kilometres from the centre. Generous space and the Itria Valley countryside all around.
Villa Silvana is the largest property in the area: up to sixteen guests, ideal for extended families or groups of friends. It is in the hamlet of Laureto, on the border with the municipality of Fasano, twelve kilometres from the sea.
Locorotondo and the Itria Valley
From the heart of the valley, everything is close. Alberobello is a quarter of an hour away, Martina Franca a quarter of an hour, Cisternino twenty minutes, Fasano a quarter of an hour. The Acquedotto Pugliese Cycle Route passes a few kilometres from the centre and offers a flat ride among trulli and olive trees, perfect for a bike outing.
